Longridge Mount Cutting Systems Mount Cutters, Mat Cutters, Passe Partout Cutters.

Frequently Asked Questions

 

I would like to find out more about your company.

Visit the About Us page for Longridge history.

 

I’m still unsure about why I should purchase a Longridge over any other Mount Cutter?

We have produced a document for you about Precision Engineering and the 5 important factors for a buyer to watch out for. If you would like any further information, please contact us.

Alternatively, do read through our reviews.

 

I’m not sure what size to go for or which system:

Which Size
Which System

I would like some help with measuring the mount board prior to cutting:

Have a look at our Mount Maths document on the Instructions page.

 

I get a curve at the end of my straight cut:

The action should be positive, smooth and continuous until the straight cut is completed.

If there is any hesitation towards the end of the cut, which can be a natural tendency, then this will effect tension on the blade and allow it to flex very slightly. This can contribute to a very slight curvature at the end of the cut.

In summary: a smooth, positive, continuous straight line action from the shoulder down the arm, in line with the cutting side of the rail, will result in a straight line of cut from beginning to end.

 

Can I use scrap mountboard or a cutting mat instead of SprintMat?

Mountboard is not flat so it does not give a consistent support to the bevel cut. It consists of a random mass of crossed-fibres which create blade drag, wear and blade deflection.

Self-healing cutting mats are designed to take straight cuts, not bevel cuts; the hard core center causes considerable wear and tends to break the tip of the blade. 

SprintMat is specifically designed for bevel mount cutting. Click here to find out why.

 

I get a curve at the end of my bevel cut:

The mount cutting system must be placed on a solid, firm worktop. Any bowing or weakness in the worktop will result in the mount cutting system following the bow as you cut, which in turn will result in a curved effect in the length of the bevel cut.

Also ensure that you are cutting into a fresh section of the SprintMat for each mount so that your blade does not become misguided in a previous cut. 

 

My bevelled edge is ragged or feathered, not crisp and clean:

Make sure that you have the SprintMat  underneath your mount as this supports the cut. We advise that you move the SprintMat every few cuts to ensure that the blade is supported as often as possible. Also, check that your blade tip is still pointy. It may be that you just need to change the blade.

 

My bevelled edges are the wrong way round:

In simple terms: For right handers, the majority of the mount should stick out on the right hand side of the rail. For left handers, the majority of the mount should stick out on the left hand side of the rail. Ensure you ROTATE the mount after every cut. If you don’t, the bevelled edge will be inverted when you turn the cut window mount over on to the front.

 

I’m getting overcutting or undercutting at the corners when bevel cutting?

You need to adjust the blade depth. Start with the blade set too deep and then adjust it until the corner comes out perfectly.

 

I would like to do a double or step mount?

Check out the Mount Medley Manual.

 

I want to be more adventurous with my mounting?

Fantastic! Check out our “Mount Medley Manual” which is full of tips and designs for you to explore. Watch this space for the sequel mount manual on decoration!

 

I would like to see some live demonstrations?

Please come and see us at any of our events. All of the exhibitions that we attend have live one to one demos on the stand throughout each day; a few also have workshops that you can attend.